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Curved Feather bump-up-and-over feather tutorial

feather tutorial getting started
Pull the bobbin thread up to the top and hold on as you get started

Getting started is quite simple. Pull the bobbin thread up and hold on while you get started stitching. I started stitching the feather base a crook or candy can shape.

Stitch away from you in kind of a candy cane shape.
Base or spine of the feather

 
As I was stitching the curve out the needle was knocking – meaning that the tip is bent – and I had to change as soon as I finished the base.

getting started, bringing the bobbin thread up

A bent tip will compromise the cloth so it had to go. Bad needle, bad needle! More to the point bad quilter for continuing to quilt with the needle in there. I kept thinking it’s only a few more stitches. Well it was only a few more stitches but I could have caused myself some serious damage to the quilt.

Beginning loop – the base of the feather

So here I am getting started once again. I’m using my favorite Batt Scooters.
The first step from here is to make the base loop. I stitch that base loop based on 1) the available space and 2) what I see coming up next.  There’s another part of the center feather reaching over so I don’t want to extend too far.

stitching the 2nd feather, just up and over
just far enough away for space & interest
“kiss” the previous feather by a stitch or two and retrace the top of the feather you’ve just stitched
now it’s time to start the next feather. Since I’m right up next to the feather on the left I’m going to be mindful of it then move on
keep going the feather height may not change much but the length will. Varying the length of the feathers keeps the feathers visually pleasing. However it’s not necessary, you can keep them all the same height and width.

Next I start stitching just above and on a slight angle up over the loop. Because I’m stitching fairly narrow (Victorian style) feathers I don’t want to go too big or too far away from the first loop.
When I get near  the top of the previous feather I’ll curve in, touch the previous feather, stitch one or two along before retracing the top of the curve and starting the next feather.

I didn’t plan that up and to the right angle it just happened. The rest of the space will be filled in with more feather work

At this point I have to say just keep going and trust that this is all going to work out. I promise it will.

Usually I bury thread when I start and stop, however I wasn’t paying attention and just got into stitching. It’ll come out with a wee bit of work. I just love the color of this: black silk and Aurifil Lino

Make those practice pieces and play. Remember you have a seam ripper if you really don’t like it.  In a day or two I’ll post the practice on paper session I did.
Happy Quilting!
Teri

 

5 thoughts on “Curved Feather bump-up-and-over feather tutorial”

  1. treadlemusic – A quilter who rides motorcycle, living on a small hobby farm in southeastern Minnesota. Grandmother and Great Grandmother.
    Doreen says:

    Love that feather technique….it’s the one that works for me, too. Lovely stitching!!!!! The fabric is gorgeous and works so well with that thread.

  2. Was thinking about doing some feather work on a quilt I’m doing but one of the borders is a silk fabric. I was wondering if you have any rules to follow doing FM quilting on silk. Do you use a lightweight stabilizer. on the back of the fabric. Just love everything you do. Ellen

    1. I’ve found that basting well is essential. I spray baste with 505, spraying the batting. This stabilizes the silk enough to do whatever quilting I want without a problem

      1. Thank you Teri for that info; was driving myself a little crazy since I’ve played around a little with silk but never in a large quilt. Hugs…

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